Saturday, May 11, 2019

#185 - Tuesday, April 30, 2019 - A Stellar All-Nigher: Texas Star Party Night #3

After getting to bed around 2:30 AM on Monday night, I slept in till 10 AM again, showered, and scarfed down a lunch of pasta, meatballs, and veggies.  We had an important date to make: a trip to the McDonald Observatory!  This would be my third visit, and even though it was a technical tour sure to go over my parent's heads, it's fun for anyone to stand underneath a big scientific instrument.

It was Science Fiction day, so my dad chose an appropriate T-shirt.
He is indeed 6'5", in case you were wondering.

My mom and aunt had gotten NASA t-shirts, so I wore mine too, wanting to match.  We took a group photo in front of the building housing the 82", the first scope built there.

The view from up top was awesome.


We got tours of the 107" Harlan J. Smith telescope and the 300" Hobby-Eberly telescope.  My family was quite impressed!


The sky was clear all day, and the forecast looked very promising.  After dinner, it was time to rock and roll.

I trotted down to the lower field after dinner and pulled the covers off my scopes, woke them up from hibernation, connected the computers, and began cooling the cameras.  While I waited, I ran up to the upper field to set up my Nikon D3100 on my other tripod to do what I have been wanting to do for a while now: an all-night, sunset-to-sunrise timelapse.  I set it up at the top of the upper field, set the exposure time to 15s, focused, and let it roll.  I had it connected to AC power, so I wouldn't have to come back and touch it all night.

As darkness fell, I checked focus on the Takahashi on my own Celestron AVX mount (with my uncle's SBIG STF-8300M camera), pointed it at M101, and let it roll on collecting LRGB frames.  Once that was rolling, I moved my attention over to my Borg 76ED on the borrowed Celestron AVX from Derek to try polar aligning it and aligning it again.  That went well this time.  Then I realized I had a problem: I wasn't going to be able to guide it.  The guide scope I normally use, my Orion 50mm, was over on the Tak happily guiding away, and my other Orion 50mm had a different kind of T-shaped adapter that I bought accidentally a while back.  So I was going to have to choose a target that I could do with short exposures.  I settled on M63, the Sunflower Galaxy, and after getting it centered, I set up the sequence for LRGB frames, and let it roll.

While those images were rolling, I walked my family through the "Rising Star" Texas Star Party observing list, which included identifying constellations such as Leo and Corvus, finding the North Star, and seeing globular clusters Omega Centauri and M13.  The whole list is designed to be done naked-eye, but I showed them some of the objects in the telescope as well when I set up my 8-inch SCT later in the night.  We got a good ways through the list.  While facing east looking at Hercules after midnight for M13, my aunt asked what the backwards-C-shaped grouping of stars above Hercules was.  I told her congrats, you've discovered Corona Borealis, Crown of the North!  I was really excited that they were taking such interest in the sky.

After the Milky Way was up, I decided to go ahead and change targets on the Tak to something in that vicinity.  I have attempted the Elephant Trunk Nebula, IC 1396, a few times before, but it's very large and I could never get quite enough signal on it.  I decided to try it in narrowband.  Now, if you punch IC 1396 into the Celestron hand controller, it won't quite have the elephant trunk part of that larger nebula centered, so instead I flipped over to Cartes du Ciel on my tablet and downloaded the DSS (Digital Sky Survey) image for the area, and used that image to choose the centering point.  Then I used CdC to slew the telescope to that spot.  Then in Sequence Generator Pro, I put it on the Frame & Focus mode taking 1-second exposures, lined up where the stars were with relation to the nebula according to the SkySafari app, and centered where I thought the nebula was as best I could.  I flipped over to the Ha filter, and saw that it was out of focus!  I thought that Astronomik filters were supposed to be parfocal with each other, but apparently this wasn't quite the case.  So I slewed over to a nearby bright star, threw on the Bahtinov mask, and got it focused.  To see how that compared to the L channel, I changed to that filter, and it still looked in focus!  So I think that they are close to each other, but a small offset in focus in the L channel can show up as a bigger offset in focus in the Ha channel or something.  I would have to remember to focus in Ha and not L if I was planning on doing narrowband.

Anyway, I got back onto the Elephant Trunk, took a 5-minute test exposure, and...nothing!

Guess I need a longer exposure?  Or maybe I wasn't quite as on target as I thought.  I checked using astrometry.net, and I was indeed pretty close:

On the Results page on astrometry.net, there's a link for seeing your image aligned in Worldwide Telescope.  I reduced the image opacity on my overlaid image to see the imagery underneath.  You can see the Elephant Trunk portion on the right half of the image.

Instead, I moved over to M16 Eagle Nebula to see how that would fare.  Quite well, as it turned out!  And with a 10-minute subframe, my stars were still round!  I couldn't believe it!



It looks like my fix of moving the gears closer together in both axes on my AVX was working beautifully to virtually eliminate backlash.  I wanted to try 15 minute subs, but still wanted to get enough subframes for good signal-to-noise ratio, so I decided to push that experiment off to another night when we have the Milky Way for longer.  I got about seven subframes that night.  After looking at the forecast, I decided I didn't want to take my changes on not getting some complete datasets, so I went ahead and went back over to M101 to get the blue frames that I didn't get previously.

Back over on Derek's AVX with my Borg and ZWO ASI1600MM Pro, the periodic tracking error was pretty bad.  Even at 20s, my stars looked pretty wonky.


But I decided to press anyway, and took a bunch of 30s frames in LRGB.  It's so nice having an electronic filter wheel now, I can just set the sequence in Sequence Generator Pro and it will chug along, changing filters for me.

Once the Milky Way was appreciably high, I switched over to the Dumbbell Nebula, and ran 30s LRGB on that.

I also set up my Nikon D5300 on my Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer.  I had to traverse quite a ways from where my rig was to find another power outlet -- the ranch set up a new power pedestal this year down in the lower field, but were still using the extra-long power cables with outlet boxes every so many feet, which were originally made to run from the RV area onto the field.  This meant that the first box was quite a ways down the cable from the power pedestal, so I had to travel about halfway down the field to find an open one!  Luckily, I've gotten pretty good at finding my way around in the dark out there.  It is so dark I think nearly all of the ambient light comes from the stars.  There is some light pollution in the north, however, from the oil fields.  Anyway, I put the 35mm f/1.8 lens I was borrowing from fellow club member Paul on my Nikon D5300 and took more Rho Ophiuchi region frames.

Single 3-minute subframe, ISO-1600.  The high background is a result of airglow.

Sometime during all of this, I set up my 8-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain on its NexStar SE mount that I brought for visual observing.  After my family went to bed around 2 AM, I needed something to do, so I worked on the "Smoke and Mirrors" Texas Star Party 2019 regular observing list.  It was made up of dark nebulae and galaxy pairs.  Some of the galaxies I couldn't quite snag, but one extremely cool thing I saw was Barnard 86, "Herschel's Hole in the Heavens."  It's a very dark blotch inside of dense open cluster NGC 6520 in Sagittarius, set against the thick background of Milky Way disk stars.  It really does look like a hole in the sky!  It was extremely cool.  I added it to my imaging list for next year's TSP.

After an overall pretty successful night, I shut everything down and covered the scopes as pre-dawn light began to fill the sky.  An extremely slender crescent moon rose above the break in the hills to the east.  As I made my way up to the upper field to grab my Nikon D3100 I had set up there for the all-night timelapse, I saw Venus crest the hills, chasing the moon.  I climbed into bed at 6:30 AM, before the sun rose, but with a nearly fully-lit sky.  An excellent night!

Here's the timelapse video:

I accidentally set the ISO to 1600 instead of something higher like 6400, since I normally image at 1600 on my DSLRs.  So the Milky Way doesn't really come through, unfortunately.  It's still a fun video though.  Some of the bright flashes you see in the video are the now-dimmer Iridium flares, airplanes, and other satellites.  I did catch the edges of two meteors, though!




[ Update May 11, 2019 ] 

Got the Dumbbell Nebula image processed today!
Date: 30 April 2019
Location: Texas Star Party, Fort Davis, TX
Object: M27 Dumbbell Nebula
Attempt: 12
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
Telescope: Borg 76ED
Accessories: Starlight Xpress filter wheel, Astronomik LRGB Type 2c 2-inch filters
Mount: Celestron AVX (club member Derek's)
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: L: 76x30s
   R: 78x30s
   G: 34x30s
   B: 34x30s
   Total: 1h51m30s
Gain/ISO: 139
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 20
Biases: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: -20C

Not bad considering the lack of ability to guide!  I really love my ZWO camera.  It's so sensitive.  I got some nice structure on the nebula, despite my messy stars.  Deconvolution helped bring that out a bit.

Here are the processing steps:
- Stacked biases and created superbias
- Calibrated darks with superbias
- Calibrated lights with darks and superbias
- So yeah there is definitely something wrong with the biases - calibrating with just darks
- Calibrated lights with just darks
- SubframeSelector
- 1.567 arcsec/px
- 0.059 e/ADU
- L frame 34-4 has the highest score (93.8)
- Registered to L frame 34-4 using StarAlignment
- Stacked with ImageIntegration, Linear Fit Clipping for all
- Applied DynamicBackgroundExtraction to each LRGB channel
- Applied LinearFit to RGB channels with L as reference
- Combined RGB channels with ChannelCombination
- Applied MultiscaleLinearTransform to RGB image for denoising, without mask
- Applied MultiscaleLinearTransform to L image for denoising, with mask (zero-clipped)
- Created model PSF (point spread function) using DynamicPSF for deconvolution process
- Created range mask from stretched L image
- Created star mask from unstretched L image
- Applied Deconvolution to L image
- Stretched L and RGB using HistogramTransformation
- Combined L and RGB channels using LRGBCombination
- Applied PhotometricColorCalibration
- Adjusted curves with CurvesTransformation
- Tried to kill greenish background with ColorSaturation
- Brought in Photoshop for blue halo removal using Noel Carboni tools
- Brought back into PI for one more DBE to flatten remaining gradients

[Update May 24, 2019]

All righty, here is the completed Rho Ophiuchi complex image!

Date: 28 April 2019 & 30 April 2019
Location: Texas Star Party, Fort Davis, TX
Object: Rho Ophiuchi region
Attempt: 6
Camera: Nikon D5300
Telescope: Nikon Nikkor AF-S 35mm f/1.8 lens at f/2 (borrowed)
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 1: 86x180s (4h18m)
   2: 95x180s (4h45m)
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Stacking program: 1: PixInsight 1.8.6
2: DeepSkyStacker 3.3.2
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6 and Photoshop CC 2019 
Darks: 56 @ 40F, 22 @ 52F
Biases: 29 @ 40F, 20 @ 50F
Flats: N/A
Temperature: 28 Apr:  52-53F
30 Apr: 38-46F

So I tried processing it just in PixInsight first, but it didn't come out quite the way I wanted.  Back when I was using DeepSkyStacker, if I stacked this kind of wide-field Milky Way image using settings like I would for a deep sky object, it always came out looking overdone or something like that.  Like too much was brought out.

Processed with PixInsight alone -- not super happy

So I brushed the dust off of DeepSkyStacker and stacked these images there using the Auto-Adaptive Weighted Average stacking algorithm that seems to work quite well on these widefields.  I saved the 32-bit TIFF out of DSS and brought it into PixInsight to process, and was much happier with the result.  I ended up having to use the method in Light Vortex Astronomy's tutorial on using the Hubble palette on narrowband images to remove the pink tinge from the stars, but it worked pretty well!

So here's the process:
- Stacked in DeepSkyStacker 3.3.2, Auto-adaptive weighted average
- Didn't apply changes, saved as 32-bit TIFF, brought into PI
- Crop
- Applied DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- Applied PhotometricColorCalibration for color calibration
- Denoised with MultiscaleLinearTransform, with stretched luminance mask
- Stretched with HistogramTransformation
- Created magenta star mask with ColorMask utility, dilated stars in mask with MorphologicalTransform, then desaturated magenta in ColorSaturation
- Adjusted curves with CurvesTransformation
- Created regular star mask and desaturated red - still not quite killing it
- Applied HDRMultiscaleTransform to increase contrast
- Another round of DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- DarkStructureEnhance script

It turned out quite nice!

If you're interested, I put this image on a bunch of products on Zazzle, from canvas prints to phone cases to throw pillows!  Click here for all of them.  Most items are customizable -- you can change the size (and thus cost) of prints, or change which phone the phone case is for, etc.  Also Zazzle has "faux canvas prints" now that are way cheaper than the real canvas prints!

[ Update June 9, 2019 ] 

While it didn't turn out quite as awesome as I'd hoped, I still got better detail than my first attempt with my DSLR back at the 2017 Texas Star Party.  

Date: 30 April 2019
Location: Texas Star Party, Fort Davis, TX
Object: M63 Sunflower Galaxy
Attempt: 2
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
Telescope: Borg 76ED
Accessories: Starlight Xpress filter wheel, Astronomik LRGB Type 2c 2-inch filters
Mount: Celestron AVX (friend Derek's)
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: L: 47x30s
   R: 40x30s
   G: 39x30s
   B: 42x30s 
   Total: 1h24m
Gain/ISO: 139
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6, Photoshop CC 2019
Darks: 20
Biases: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: -20C

Date: 22 May 2017
Location: Prude Ranch, TX - Texas Star Party
Object: M63 Sunflower Galaxy
Camera: Nikon D5300
Telescope: Celestron C11
Accessories: f/6.3 focal reducer
Mount: Celestron CGE Pro
Guide scope: Orion ST-80
Guide camera: QHY5
Subframes: 18x300s (1h30m)
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Stacking program: DeepSkyStacker 3.3.2
Darks: 24
Biases: 20
Flats: 20
Temperature: 47-59 F

Well, then again, maybe the detail isn't that much better! 😂 
This dataset had some difficulty, mainly in the fact that my stars weren't very round at all, which was a result of two factors.  One was the fact that I wasn't able to guide that night since I didn't have another copy of the right kind of attachment for my other 50mm guide scope.  The other was a result of my field flattener being a little off-kilter from my scope, which made the stars a little more seagull-shaped.


While I was processing, I got some really weird effects after I registered my frames.  I forgot to save a screenshot, but basically I was getting a bright cross-hatch pattern over top of each frame when I auto-stretched, but only the color data, not the luminance.  Now, the reference frame for registration was luminance, but StarAlignment  is just aligning the frames, not applying any effects.  At first, I thought maybe my histogram peak was so low that I was dipping well into the sensor noise, so I went ahead and stacked the frames and combined, but it was bad.  


So I went back a step and aligned the frames from before I applied the score from SubframeSelection in case that was doing something, but it was the same.  So I went back one more step and registered and stacked the light frames without calibrating them with darks and biases -- and that worked.  So this image ended up a little noisy in the color because I couldn't calibrate them for some reason.  Mind you, the luminance frames were just fine, and they used the same calibration!

After that, everything went pretty swimmingly.  I did have to bring it over into Photoshop to use Noel Carboni's Astronomy Tools to kill the little blue halos -- my Borg is supposed to be apochromatic, but it's not quite there.  (The blue halos don't show with my DSLR, but my ZWO is very sensitive and they do show a bit!)

So here's the whole process.

- Created master dark with ImageIntegration
- Skipped bias because still haven't taken new -20C biases (causing problems in previous images)
- Calibrated lights with dark using ImageCalibration
- SubframeSelector on all frames to produce weights
- Scale: 1.567 arcsec/px
- Gain: 0.059 e/ADU, 12-bit
- Noted highest-scoring frame
- Registered frames with StarAlignment to highest-scoring L frame
- Auto-stretch showed weird checkerboard pattern on RGB, not L though
- Stacked with ImageIntegration
- Cropped with DynamicCrop
- Applied DynamicBackgroundExtraction to each channel
- Applied LinearFit to RGB channels with L as reference
- Combined RGB channels with ChannelCombination
- Yeah the hatching is bad
- Tried registering calibrated (but not approved) frames - still bad
- Tried registering non-calibrated lights - hatching gone, so something wrong with darks (
(but only with RGB??)
- Deleting previously-registered frames and replacing with non-calibrated RGB frames
- Stacked non-calibrated frames - didn't want to re-run SubframeSelector, so used NoiseEvaluation instead as the Weight
- Cropped, DBE, LinearFit, combined RGB channels
- Applied MultiscaleLinearTransform to RGB and L, with extracted luminance mask
- Color corrected RGB with PhotometricColorCalibration
- Created sampled PSF (point spread function) from L frame for deconvolution
- Applied Deconvolution to L, 20 iterations, with range_mask-star_mask for mask
- Stretched L and RGB with HistogramTransformation
- Denoised RGB with MultiscaleLinearTransform, with extracted luminance mask
- Combined L and RGB images with LRGBCombination
- Applied another round of DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- Applied HDRMultiscaleTransform, with range mask
- Denoised with MultiscaleLinearTransform again, with extracted luminance mask
- Adjusted with CurvesTransformation
- Imported into Photoshop, ran Carboni's reduce small blue/violet halos routine
- Cropped with DynamicCrop
- Adjusted histogram to reduce background a bit with HistogramTransformation

And there you have it!






Thursday, May 9, 2019

#184 - Monday, April 29, 2019 - At Last, Some Success: Texas Star Party Night #2

After a frustrating first night, I slept in until about 10 AM,  since my body wouldn't let me sleep much longer.  I took a shower and then got lunch at the dining lodge with my family.  Hamburgers, hot dogs, fries, onion rings, baked beans...yum!

We drove into Fort Davis to get some snack items and some adult beverages, and we stopped for ice cream at the Caboose ice cream shop there in town.  Much to my Louisiana-originating parent's delight, they served Blue Bell ice cream!  (Well, my dad grew up in Louisiana, and my mom ended up there for college as a military brat).

I'm sure they're just going to love that I posted this picture...

I went down to the lower observing field during the day to to work on a few things.  My first goal was to attempt to level my CGE Pro tripod in some way.  Fellow club member John had given me two thin pieces of wood that were thicker at one end than the other -- shims, basically.  My dad and I took the whole mount apart because there it's too heavy to lift and maneuver fully loaded, and because there is no flat place anywhere on the mount until you get down to the empty top of the tripod.  However, we figured out that this still wasn't going to work - we needed to adjust more than one leg, and each shim alone was too thin to support the weight of the mount, since they were starting to crack under the tripod alone.  I also figured out that the circular bubble level that came with my NexStar SE that I have been using for a long time at some point became no longer correct, so I had to pull out my regular level.   In addition, the other feet were sinking into the dirt anyway under load, also un-leveling it.  I finally gave up and didn't even put the mount back together.  I moved the tripod over by my car.  So much for that.

At that point, fellow club member Derek asked if I would like to borrow his new Celestron AVX.  I was happy to accept!  I have such great friends.  I would put the Borg on it.  Back up to two imaging rigs, woot!

To deal with the calibrating the finderscope problem, someone suggested I put the SII filter in front of the camera (mainly so the image wouldn't be too bright) and point it over at the hillside, see where it was pointing, and then align the finderscope to that point.  I hit an immediate snag when Sequence Generator Pro decided it didn't want to connect to the filter wheel anymore.  I selected a different type of filter wheel from the list of available integrated SBIG filter wheels, and then it decided to work, even though it had worked fine last night.  Sheesh.  Anyway, using the hills was a lot easier than trying to find a star!  So I did that, and got it aligned in about ten minutes.  It was hard to move across the top of the ridge using an equatorial scope, especially with the weird camera angle!  But I finally found a distinctive set of trees.

The unstretched histogram looks like Sauron's Two Towers.

The forecast was dicey, but it was mostly clear at the moment; as darkness fell, I began the alignment process.  It went much more easily with a functioning finderscope!  I was aligned within minutes.  Then I used Celestron's All-Star Polar Alignment to polar align, since I can't get the SBIG to talk to SharpCap for its polar alignment routine.  That went quickly as well since I wasn't too far off, and the red dot finder is easy to use.  

After alignment, polar alignment, and re-alignment, and calibrating autoguiding in PHD2 on a southerly star, I slewed to M101, my first target of the night.  I tried Sequence Generator Pro's plate solve routine (configured for the offline version of the astrometry.net indices, as described in this Light Vortex tutorial), and unbelievably, it worked the first time!  It took two attempts to get M101 centered, but it did center it.


It was so cool.  It was like the future.  Autonomous!  Bonus points, I used Cartes du Ciel to tell the mount to slew to M101.  It was really cool hitting the go command on my computer and having the mount slew.  I felt so cool.

Once this was done, I turned on autoguiding and set SGP to take a 3-minute exposure.  I waited as the progress bar ticked along.  Finally it downloaded -- perfectly round stars!  So I took a 5-minute frame.  Stars were still round!  I couldn't believe it!  Even though the guide graph didn't look great, the focal length was short enough not to see it.  Clouds were forming in the west, but the north was still clear, so I let it take 5-minute frames while I set up the Borg on Derek's AVX.

I got everything assembled easily enough -- I put my Borg 76ED on it with my ZWO ASI600MM Pro and Starlight Xpress filter wheel.  I used the cable bundle I made for the C11 since the one I made for the Borg was on the Takahashi, although the one of the C11 was far too long for the Borg, and I had to figure out a way to loop the cable around so it wouldn't catch on anything.  I took the finderscope off the Tak and put it on the Borg to get Capella into the camera's field of view so I could focus, and I'll be damned if it wasn't dead-on perfect!  I totally guessed on how far out I needed to pull the drawtube when I set it up, and it just happened to be spot-on perfect, like Bahtinov mask perfect.  What a stroke of dumb luck!  I hoped it was a good sign for the rest of the week.  

I went to polar align it in SharpCap, but I was getting some weird results -- I was pretty close to start with looking through the finderscope, and it had me move the mount a fair bit.  I wasn't confident in the polar alignment, so I tried Celestron's All-Star Polar Alignment, but it gave a similar answer.  Gotos were consistently pretty far off, however.  

Once I got to this stage, the clouds were rolling starting to roll in heavy, and I got to bed around 2:30 AM.  An early night! :O



#183 - Sunday, April 28, 2019 - A Perilous Night! Texas Star Party Night #1

I am here under the dark skies outside of Fort Davis, Texas for the annual pilgrimage to the hallowed Texas Star Party!  It is on the early side this year, so weather may be dicey, but I am hoping for a few good clear nights.  I loaded up my car with all of my junk (and there is a lot!) and made the multi-day drive down to southwest Texas.

Here's the stuff all staged in my living room!  I wanted to grab a picture of the loaded car, but it was pouring rain in the morning as I finished loading it up.

I arrived around 1:30 PM on Sunday, checked in at the main office, and proceeded to the bunkhouse they had for my family and me.  This year, I convinced my parents to come down, and my Aunt Jo and Uncle Chris came as well!  My Uncle Chris is the one who gave me the 11-inch Schmidt Cassegrain and Celestron CGE mount back in January 2016 that really boosted my astrophotography capability.  He brought his Meade LX850 with a Takahashi FS106 on it.  He also brought his older Takahashi FSQ-106N and SBIG STF-8300M camera for me to borrow, complete with LRGB (luminance, red, green, blue) and narrowband Ha, OIII, and SII filters (hydrogen alpha, oxygen-III, and sulfur-II).  He was trying to sell them as well.  One of my fellow club members put together a Vixen-to-Losmandy dovetail converter so I could put the Losmandy-railed Takahashi onto my Vixen-dovetailed Celestron AVX mount.

My family hadn't arrived yet -- my parents were flying in from Spokane, WA, and my aunt and uncle were driving from Baton Rouge, LA -- so I started pulling my stuff out of the car and getting set up.  It was over 90 degrees F, so I moved pretty slowly!  The sky clouded up in the late afternoon, which provided some relief from the sun.

Later in the afternoon, my aunt and uncle arrived, and then my parents.  I was so excited to have them all here!! It was also nice having them around to help put together the heavier stuff.

The two rigs I set up were the following:
"The Beast"
- Mount: Celestron CGE Pro
- Telescope: Celestron 11-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain
- Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
- Filter wheel: Starlight Xpress 5-position 2-inch
- Filters: Astronomik LRGB Type 2c 2-inch filters
- Guide scope: Celestron 80mm f/7.5
- Guide camera: QHY5L-II

"The Rig With a Bunch of Borrowed Stuff"
- Mount: Celestron Advanced VX
- Telescope: Takahashi FSQ-106N (my Uncle Chris')
- Camera: SBIG STF-8300M (also my Uncle Chris')
- Filter wheel: SBIG 8-position 36mm (also Uncle Chris')
- Filters: Astronomik LRGB & narrowband filters, 36mm (these are also Uncle Chris')
- Guide scope: Orion 50mm mini-guider
- Guide camera: QHY5

Now, my Uncle Chris has a Meade LX850 like I mentioned, which includes the StarLock alignment/guide scope setup, so he doesn't have a separate guide scope, nor a way to attach one.  Luckily, he brought a Losmandy plate with a bunch of holes in it that attaches to the top of the rings that I was able to attach one of my Orion 50mm mini-guiders too without much trouble.  The FSQ-106N has a focal length of 530mm, which is well within reach of the Orion 50mm (it has a 162mm focal length).

Now, for my CGE Pro, if you've been seeing my posts lately, you've seen the problems I've been having with the declination motor (see here for a rundown, and then my Facebook page for the play-by-play of what I've been doing to fix it).  Long story short, the dec motor is "pulsing" or something, even when completely detached from the mount, and even when it's plugged into the RA circuit board (they're identical except for some added limit switches).  It almost feels like something is sticking or dragging.  Anyway, it's making the stars vibrate back and forth when I slew in dec, and of course this is wrecking tracking and guiding.  So, my plan was this: I was going to polar align really well, drift align, and then turn off guiding and tracking in declination (I learned recently that Celestron mounts do indeed do some tracking in declination to help compensate for polar alignment).  

However, I never got that far: I started setting up the CGE Pro mount, and the tripod leg I had raised slightly to level slipped as I loaded it up, so it was no longer level!  Now, I had had this trouble previously with a tripod leg bolt that I had to replace, but in this case it was one of the original ones.  That tripod came with the CGE, I guess it's just not meant to hold up the CGE Pro...Now, normally, you don't really need to be level with an equatorial mount.  However, not being level was going to make doing polar alignment, and especially drift alignment, really difficult, if not impossible.  This is because if it's not level, when you go to adjust altitude, it also changes azimuth, and vice versa.  I decided to try it anyway.

Night fell, and as usual for Fort Davis, the clouds before sunset cleared out after.  Not entirely, but plenty enough to do all of the first night's work of alignment, polar alignment, focusing, and calibrating the autoguider.  I worked on my own AVX first with the Takahashi, and encountered an early problem: I couldn't get the driver for the Robofocus electronic focusing unit my uncle had on the Tak to load.  The Robofocus driver showed up in Sequence Generator Pro, but it wouldn't connect, and I needed the ASCOM driver. I installed some software that was supposed to have it, but it still wasn't showing up in SGP as an ASCOM driver.  He told me I could just hit the buttons on the control box for it though, but I didn't see any defocused stars in the home position to focus on.  So I slewed over to Scorpius, which would definitely have more stars, and sure enough, there were a quite a few in the field of view.  I got it focused, and then slewed back to the home position for polar alignment.

Since SharpCap doesn't talk to SBIG (at least, not as far as I can tell), I wasn't going to be able to use SharpCap's polar alignment algorithm.  However, Celestron has its built-in All-Star Polar Alignment routine, so I decided to use that.  First, though, you need to align.  Since it wasn't polar aligned, its initial guesses weren't very good, and I was going to need a finderscope to get a star in the field of view.  So I grabbed my dual bracket so I could have the guide scope and finderscope side-by-side, and I pulled a spare red dot finder out of my tackle box.  Of course, it had somehow gotten switched on a while back, so the battery was dead.  Back over to the tackle box I went, where I replaced the battery.  During the process of trying to take the battery cover off, it came off suddenly and went flying!  The battery won't stay in place without it!  Luckily it only took a few minutes to find with my aunt's much brighter red flashlight (which probably annoyed our neighbors -- sorry!)

Finally, after all that, I put the finderscope back onto the telescope.  However, the battery was kind of loose, and I couldn't get the red dot to stay on.  My other finderscope was in the car, in the case with my Borg telescope, and even though I had put the red filters on my car's lights, I still was hesitant to open the doors to grab it out.  Without a functioning finderscope, I was unable to align.  I was feeling pretty defeated by this point after all of the frustration in the last week about trying to fix my CGE Pro. It just wasn't fair!  I've worked so hard at this, and I just can't catch a break.

At that point, I decided to give the CGE Pro a go, but polar alignment in SharpCap was, indeed, really hard.  I just couldn't quite land on a close enough polar alignment, since changing altitude changed the azimuth position too, and vice versa.  The one good thing is that the rods I got to turn the altitude adjustment screw worked great.  It was easy to turn, although I had to keep taking them out and putting them back in to the next set of holes every fraction of a turn.  I started having issues getting connected to the mount via USB, however, and tired and frustrated, I gave up on that too.

At some point, I went ahead and set up my Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer DSLR tracker, and put the Nikon 85mm f/1.8 lens I was borrowing from fellow club member Paul onto my Nikon D5300.  I polar aligned it using the polar scope and a super handy smartphone app called simply "Polar Alignment" to tell me where on the 12-hour clock face of the polarscope Polaris should be for my location and time.  Way easier than the whole rigmarole of setting the date and the meridian offset and all that junk.  Yay technology!  The Star Adventurer kept slipping around a little bit though, particularly the altitude axis, which I can't figure out how to tighten down. I also want to replace the azimuth tightening screws with thumbscrews!  So it didn't stay dead on after I got the dovetail, counterweight bar, and camera loaded on, I'm sure.  After that was done, I took some test exposures, but 60-second exposures with the 85mm were still showing streaky stars.  So I swapped out for the 35mm f/1.8 lens I was also borrowing from Paul, stopped it down to f/2, and pointed it at the Rho Ophiuchi region and part of the Milky Way.  I took 1-minute, then 2, then 3, and the stars were rock-solid!  Easy at that short of a focal length, haha.  At 3 minutes, the camera was nearly saturating at ISO-1600, so I let it take 3-minute exposures the rest of the night while I went back to my scopes.  I had plugged the camera into AC power, plugged the Star Adventurer into a smartphone power bank, and set the intervalometer to take infinity exposures, so it clicked away contentedly.

Throughout the course of the evening, I occasionally went over to my friend's scopes to see the things they were looking at.  Against the dark background of the southwest Texas sky, just about everything jumps out, including dark nebulae.  I looked at M16 Eagle Nebula, M17 Swan Nebula, and M57 Ring Nebula in my friend Rick's scope.  They looked great.  It was a real treat.

It was late enough by this point and enough people had gone to bed that I chanced opening up my car doors briefly to grab the Borg case.  I saw how well my red headlight filters work, though -- I couldn't remember just how dim they really do make the headlights.  The red film I got from B&H Photo has only 13% light transmission.  (See my post on reddening my Ford Light Beacon!)

With the functioning finderscope in hand, I tried to align the AVX again.  However, the finderscope wasn't aligned to the Tak, and I still couldn't find the star.

I finally called it a night at 5 AM.  I just can't give up!  I covered the scopes, moved the Star Adventurer under the canopy tent, and trudged back to the bunkhouse for some sleep.



Friday, April 19, 2019

#182 - Monday, April 15, 2019 - Pre-Texas Star Party Checkout

That magical time of the year is fast approaching...no, not Christmas...the Texas Star Party!  A solid week out in the middle-of-nowhere southwest Texas, near the small town of Fort Davis.  This will be my third year!  Each year, I pull out my gear to make sure I have all the parts and pieces I think I do and see what the state of everything is.

It's been nearly a year since I last pulled out my 11-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain and its Celestron CGE Pro mount.  I describe some of the issue in my series of posts last year about the Texas Star Party (starting with night 3's post), but I'll give you the rundown. 

It all started at the 2017 Hidden Hollow Star Party, in late September of that year.  Just a few months prior, I had roaring success with the CGE Pro at the Green Bank Star Party in mid-July, accomplishing 8 minutes of guiding at least, which for some isn't much, but for me is a lot!  (And by that I mean, I could take an 8-minute image and not get any star streaks from tracking/guiding errors).  At Hidden Hollow, however, I started having issues with guiding -- my guide plots were all over the place, and I couldn't take images longer than like 30 seconds of so without streaking.  This was terrible!  I finally figured out that the declination axis had some kind of jitter -- when I slewed slowly, I could literally see the stars bouncing back and forth.  The right ascension axis was still buttery smooth.  Fellow club member Jim and I popped open the casing and took a look, but nothing looked out of place.  I could, however, rock the dec axis back and forth by hand, which was not a good sign.  But it started getting cold as soon as I got home, so the mount stayed indoors all winter.

It didn't warm up enough that spring before the Texas Star Party for me to pull it out and tinker, so I brought it as it was down to TSP.  I figured out how to remove the cover while keeping the telescope loaded, and observed that the worm gear had some somewhat separated from the main dec axis cog wheel, which was causing all of the slop.  I tightened up the bolt that pushes the worm into the cog, but finding the exact right position for it was tough -- I didn't want to cause binding as well.  Some folks around me offered ideas, and I even talked to the Celestron people who were there, but unfortunately they didn't have any of their engineers in attendance.  They were flabbergasted to hear that the CGE Pro was having this problem, especially after it had been Hypertuned!

And finally here we are, a year later.  Time to see where things were at.

I got home somewhat late from work, and was halfway through the first episode of the last season of Game of Thrones when I looked at my watch and saw that it was already 8:20 PM!  So I paused the show and started pulling my gear together to take downstairs to the front yard to set up.  I just needed to see some stars so I could guide.  It was pretty clear that night, although chilly in the mid-40s.  But looking at the forecast, it would be my only opportunity before TSP most likely.

Once I put the cats away in the den so I could leave the door open, I picked up my CGE Pro mount head in its box -- I forgot just how much that thing weighed!  It's about 60 lbs!  And I have been slacking on the gym-going over the winter.  As I started to descend the stairs inside my apartment, my legs began to wobble, so I had to change tactics.  I put the box on the stair a few stairs above me, and then braced it on my legs to move it down one step at a time.  It was slow going, but much safer and easier.  (I almost fell down the stairs with it once).  All of my the rest of my gear felt light by comparison!  All told, I moved about 250 lbs of gear or so down the stairs.

"The Beast" loadout: box with the equatorial section, pier, cables, nuts, and bolts; C11 telescope; 80mm guidescope; mount head box; three counterweights; tripod; computer table; tackle box; cameras; battery; filter wheel; and some warm clothes.

It took me about an hour to set it up, which went pretty smoothly for not having done it in a while.  They only thing I couldn't find was the SCT-2-inch connector, which I ended up finding in my ZWO camera bag, where I had strategically left it previously to use with my C8 for planetary imaging.  I went ahead and moved it to the tackle box, which is where I expected it to be.  The tackle box is like my favorite thing; it's enormous and probably weighs about 30 lbs fully loaded at the moment, but it was everything I need: batteries, cables, adapters, extension tubes, parfocal rings, nuts, bolts, hex wrenches, screwdrivers, scissors, velcro, vice grip, pliers, cable ties, and more. 

After attaching the camera and filter wheel, I got it balanced, and realized I needed that third counterweight!  I could hear the tripod creaking as I moved things around.  I tightened the leg leveling bolts and the stabilizer a bit more.

"The Beast"

I haven't turned it on since last May :(

I was going to look visually through it first to see if the jitter was still there, but since the camera was already attached, I decided to go ahead and polar align it, align it, and see how the guiding would do in its current state.  I firmed up the worm gear pretty decently last year, but the data I took after that were relatively low in altitude, so the guiding may have been affected by the atmosphere.

One annoying thing about this mount is that you have to re-position the altitude adjustment screw for latitudes above 40 degrees and latitudes below 40 degrees.  When you get close to 40, however, you're really running out of screw at least a few degrees before that.  Plus, one of the bolts you need to remove to do the switch is stripped!  So I can't actually do it.  Fortunately, one of my friends at the Green Bank Star Quest in 2017 came up with a simple and ingenious fix -- give the screw a little extra length with a giant nut!

So simple!  And works so well!

I set the altitude marker near my latitude, checked that it was pointing mostly north, and then fired up SharpCap to do a proper polar alignment.  The Pro version of SharpCap has an excellent polar alignment tool, in addition to others, and it's only $15/year.  I got everything connected, and after finding focus, I started the procedure.  I could see numerous stars easily, but it was unable to plate solve the image!  I messed with gain, noise, and exposure settings, but was getting nothing.  Then I wondered if I was just so far off the pole that it was outside the plate-solving database area it had.  I looked through the Telrad - and yeah I was way off in altitude!  But I had set the altitude using the marker, hmm...oh wait, the nut adds like five extra degrees of height *smacks face*.  So I adjusted both axes until Polaris was near the center of the Telrad, and then tried SharpCap again.  Plate solve no problem!

Now, if you've been following my blog or have spoken to me before, you have heard me say how terrible the altitude adjustment system is on the CGE Pro (Celestron have a much better one on the CGX-L, I will note).  Basically, the gist of the problem is that when you turn the altitude knob, you are pushing against the entire weight of both the mount head and whatever telescope, counterweights, and other gear you have loaded.  For me, this means I'm trying to turn a knob against over 160 lbs!  Turning by hand is impossible, and I borrowed a belt wrench at last year's TSP, but that was also pretty difficult.  But, last year, I noticed that the hand knob had holes in the side all around it.  So after I got back, I went to Lowe's and bought two long rods that fit the holes perfectly.  Now I can get all kinds of torque, and it turns no problem!  I do have to take them out every quarter turn to shift to the next set of holes, but it's not too bad.


While I was polar aligning, I noticed that the stars seemed less in focus near the edges than the center.  This suggested I needed to collimate.  I decided to try what I've been meaning to try -- collimating with my camera!  I slewed over to Capella, defocused the star, messed with the exposure time to get a nice image, and then saw that my donut was, indeed, a little asymmetrical.


One of the cool things about collimating a Schmidt-Cassegrain is that you can literally point to one of the three adjustment screws and see which one you are pointing at in the image.  This makes it very easy to know which one to turn!  So I made the adjustments, and got it probably fairly close.


After that was all done, I aligned, which went pretty smoothly -- after polar aligning, now each star landed in the field-of-view of my camera, and then I just had to center it in the camera view.  I did two western stars and two eastern.  I did notice, however, that the alignment didn't seem to get better - even after the fourth star, they weren't landing much closer to the middle of the image.  Weird.

Next, I needed a quick imaging target -- I could have just dropped it anywhere to check on guiding, but I figured I may as well grab a few images while I was at it.  So I popped over to M13, but I stopped by nearby Alphecca first so I could focus the guide scope.  I had to add an extension tube to get my QHY5L-II to focus into my Celestron 80mm, but once that was added, Alphecca first appeared as an enormous circle on the bottom of the image, so I just had to jog the scope up a bit so that it would be centered in the guide scope for focusing.

Finally, with all that done, it was time to calibrate PHD for autoguiding.  I got it connected, and was just about to hit go when...my tablet shut down!  Running both my ZWO ASI1600MM Pro and my QHY5L-II off of it were just too much for the battery while plugged into the 1.5A USB power on my Celestron Power Tank.  I really need to be on 2.4A to run cameras, but an even better option is to just power the USB hub.  (The ZWO's cooler runs on 12V power, but the camera itself can run on 5V USB power alone, which is handy for planetary imaging when sensor temperature matters less).  So I ran upstairs and grabbed my 2.4A smartphone battery and a micro USB cable to power the USB hub that everything was plugged into, got everything hooked up, rebooted the tablet, and was rolling again not too much later.

I calibrated PHD...and got a non-orthogonality warning!  It did look a little non-orthogonal, and there were a few bad points.


I accepted it anyway so I could see what it really did to the images.  I flipped over to Sequence Generator Pro and finally took my first image of the night, around 11:15 PM, of M13.  I took a 3-minute image to start, but I could already see some pretty bad streaks.

Cropped view of a streaky M13.

I tried re-calibrating, but it looked even worse.


And guiding looked bad.


So I finally took off the camera and filter wheel and threw an eyepiece on, which I should've just done in the first place to save me a bunch of time.  Sure enough, the problem I started seeing in 2017 was back, with a vengeance!  Slewing in dec at slow-ish speeds made the stars jiggle back and forth as they slewed, making little streaking lines to my eye.  I could hear it happening too -- it almost sounds like something is sticking or dragging.  It was worse pointing west than east, but it was still present looking east.  It's bad enough that I can probably work on it during the day and not need to see how the stars are affected because the sound is so obvious.  Maybe I'd be able to see the jitter looking at trees or something too from inside my living room.  I'm hoping to get a chance to take a look inside and tighten things up during the daytime before I have to leave.  

I tore down shortly after that, around midnight.  My fingers started to freeze because so many tasks require having ungloved fingers, like attaching cable ties, loosening thumbscrews, etc.  I hauled everything up the stairs as quietly as I could so as not to disturb my downstairs neighbor, but I'm pretty sure she hates me, haha.  For the mount head, I did the same thing going up as coming down: I used my legs to brace it and push it up one step at a time.  My knee had started to hurt from accidentally turning it out a bit when I lifted, so I ended up having to do bad-form lifts using more back than legs.  My back was sore for three days!  Whoops...

Can't wait for the Texas Star Party!  Hopefully I can get things to work!  I think I've got a solution for the dec axis sticking/freezing on my Celestron AVX as well, but haven't had a chance to finish implementing it yet.  I'll write a post on that whole process when it's done.


Wednesday, April 10, 2019

#181 - Tuesday, April 2, 2019 - Fuzzy Colors

Lucky me, another night out this week!  Looking at the forecast the other night, I didn't think it was going to happen, so I put my gear away, but then the weather cleared up for tonight!  The atmosphere wasn't promised to be great, but I don't need great seeing for the color data I need to take on M82, the Cigar Galaxy.  Then I'll just need one more night to get the hydrogen alpha so I can make a killer image, hopefully!  On top of this being a clear night, it's downright balmy at 44 degrees F!

I got out to the observatory around 8:20 PM, turned on the heat in the warm room, and got the dome set up.  Got my guide camera and main imaging camera plugged in, attached my super-awesome cable bundle, connected the cables to my computer and main power, and booted everything up.  It was still dusk, so I decided to see where the mount was at with polar alignment.

It was off by about an arcminute, which is fine but could be better, especially since this is a permanently-mounted system.  So I polar aligned using SharpCap, and since it was still too bright out to start imaging, I decided to give PHD's drift alignment a try.

Post-polar alignment

It wasn't very difficult.  First, it has you slew to a spot near the celestial equator and the meridian.  You don't even need to find a nearby star in your mount's star catalog -- PHD conveniently fills in the coordinates for you, and sends a command to the mount to go there.  Easy peasy!  Then you just watch the dec trendline for long enough to have enough points to see the trend (and not the atmosphere), adjust the azimuth a little one way and see where the line goes, and try to get it flat.  It even has a little space to put notes so you can remember which knob makes the trendline move which way.  I was getting close on azimuth when the guide star started getting lost in the noise -- there was a bank of clouds!!  So rude!  So I waited about 10 minutes, and luckily it passed, and I got back to it.


I couldn't get it perfectly flat, but it was close, and the adjustments I was making were tiny.  So I switched then to the altitude adjustment, which has you slew to a spot near the celestial equator and either the eastern or western horizon.  It had coordinates programmed in for the western horizon, but the main observatory building blocks the way, so I flipped it to east (switched the meridian offset degrees from -65 to 65) and then started the drift process.  It immediately shot up!  That was weird, I thought I was very close to polar aligned.  I made a small adjustment on the altitude knob to see which way I needed to go, and it came back down immediately.  Through some trial and error, I figured out that this was a very touchy adjustment, and I only needed to make very small adjustments on the knob, no matter how bad the guide graph looked.  I eventually got the line pretty level.  The whole thing probably took about 10 minutes if you don't count the clouds rolling in.


Once that was done, I slewed to Dubhe to see if my alignment model was still any good after the adjustments -- and it was quite close to center!


Good enough for me...

Next, I slewed southish to some random star I clicked on in the Celestron PWI app so I could calibrate PHD for autoguiding.  PHD says that calibrations are best done at declinations lower than 20 degrees.  That went swimmingly, and then I slewed to M82, and took a 10s exposure to check its position (faster than doing a plate solve for something as bright as M82).  It was slightly off-center, but close enough for me!

So I flipped over to Sequence Generator Pro from SharpCap and configured the sequence.  Another cloud bank had rolled through, so it was 9:45.  I didn't want to be out later than midnight, so I divvied up the red, green, and blue exposures to fill that time.  I was going to do 5-minute exposures, which would mean I could do 9 subframes per channel, but with the cloudlets floating through, I decided to drop to 3 minutes in case I needed to toss any out.  I had enough time for 15 per channel, but then remembered how abysmally slow SGP is at downloading frames, so I dropped to 14 per channel.  I was about to hit the "go" button when PHD started yelling at me -- the one and only cloud in the sky was right over M82!  Jerk!  So I waited a couple minutes for it to move along, and then hit "go."  The filter wheel rotated to the red filter (a very gleeful moment), I checked the slit position on the dome, and then waited a few minutes for the image to come in.  Guiding looked okay, but not great.


I changed integration times to 6 seconds per frame since the atmosphere was kind of mushy.  But the stars looked fairly close to circular, so I called it good and went inside to hang out.  It wasn't particularly cold outside, although I did have on my Cuddl Dud pants, jeans, under armor shirt, sherpa-fleece-lined sweater, winter coat, and knit hat, but I didn't need my gloves or my fleece-lined hat.

At 11 PM, I went back out to do the meridian flip, and it ended up a little high in the frame, so I decided to use AstroTortilla to plate solve and move the scope.  It was successful in solving the image, but it say on "Re-centering..." for like two minutes, and I didn't hear the scope move.  It was definitely talking to the scope though since it was showing current coordinates in comparison to the image-based coordinates.  So I gave up and slewed it myself.  I was about to continue acquiring frames when I went and checked the last few frames, and it looked out of focus a little bit!  Then I remembered that I forgot to check focus...so I slewed to a nearby brightish star, put the Bahtinov mask on, and checked, and sure enough, it was a little out of focus!  There goes half the night...darn.  So I focused, centered the star and added it to the point model to correct it a bit, and then slewed back to M82, which was still a bit off-center but close enough.  Turned guiding back on, hit Go, and went back inside to warm up.  I didn't have my thermometer running, but it felt like it was dipping into the 30s.  That little exercise wasted about 15 minutes.


The transparency was not excellent, and this was further evidenced by a low-ish-flying airplane that passed by on my way back into the warm room -- I could see the light path of its headlights for several degrees in front of it!  And my images do look a bit blurred.  But again, color data is quite relaxed in its requirements.  So we shall see!  Glad I'm not doing hydrogen alpha tonight.

I went out at midnight to check on things, and things were still rolling, but the last blue frame I looked at looked kind of terrible.  Fuzzed out and bloated!  And since it was midnight, it was time to pack it in.  I'll process the data anyway and see how things look, since my luminance frames should be good, although I'll only have half the blue frames I had planned thanks to the delay.  We'll see how it goes!

Here's a single 3-minute subframe in the red channel!  It looks ugly now, but soon it will be a beautiful butterfly...



Monday, April 1, 2019

#180 - Sunday, March 31, 2019 - In like a lion, out like a lamb

The sky was thick with clouds and the breeze was strong, but the forecasts said it would clear between 9 and 10 PM -- and I'm a believer!  So I packed up my gear in the car and drove out to the observatory.  I had a few new toys to try out -- a new electronic filter wheel (Starlight Xpress 5-position 2-inch, USB-controlled), and some cable management!

Just after installing the filters.
The blue-looking one is the red filter, the pink one is the green, and the yellow one is the blue.  (They're rejection filters).  Clear one is luminance (blocks UV and IR)

I spent Sunday afternoon taking the advice of the good folks on The Astro Imaging Channel and wrapping my cables in some of the 50 feet of flexible cable sock I bought.  I had previously put off doing this because I change configurations so often -- this camera on that telescope, with or without dew heaters, multiple rigs at once while at star parties, etc -- but cables are cheap, so I just bought a bunch of duplicates.  The cable sock I bought is self-closing, so instead of feeding a cable through, I wrap the sock around the cables, so it's pretty easy to add or remove cables, and it's easy to have them pop out before the end of the sock if I need to run cables farther along.  The cable configuration I built for my astro club's memorial scope includes: a USB 3.0 cable for my ZWO camera, a USB 2.0 cable for my new filter wheel, and the power cable (with a couple of extensions) for my ZWO camera.  My guide camera gets plugged into my ZWO camera (which has two USB ports on it), and since I have my USB hub attached to the pier, I just have the Celestron mount connection USB cable separate from the bundle.  My USB 3.0 hub is velcro'd to the pier, and then a USB 3.0 cable runs to my tablet.  Now I only have one thing hanging off the scope!  I suppose I could also plug the filter wheel into the camera, since it only draws 100 mA max (part of the reason I picked that particular filter wheel -- no external power, and very low consumption!).


I also made cable configurations for using my DSLR (DSLR USB cable, DSLR power, guide camera, and Celestron serial cable), and then one for either of my Celestron configurations with my ZWO (USB 3.0 cable, Celestron serial cable, filter wheel USB 2.0 cable, and two dew heater straps), and then one specifically for the Texas Star Party, where I'll be using a SBIG ST-8300M I'm borrowing with my manual filter wheel on my 11-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain (USB 2.0 cable for SBIG, SBIG power cable, guide camera cable, my other two dew heaters, and the Celestron serial cable).  Yeah cable management!  No more snagging on stuff by accident, and fewer things to move around and mess up guiding.

So I got out to the observatory around 8:20 PM, and the clouds were still thick, but I went ahead and set up.  First I set up a timelapse, since watching the clouds dissipate is pretty cool.  (Sorry I haven't posted last week's timelapse video yet -- I'm having some file naming issues, I think I'm just going to write my own script to do it!).  Then I opened up the dome, plugged in my cameras, and connected everything to my cable bundle.  It's beautiful!

Still got a bit of a power cable mess, but that part doesn't move, so I'm less concerned...

Buuuuuut the clouds were thick.  So I decided to take some flats. I slewed the scope down to a level I could reach, attached a white t-shirt using a stretchy headband to the objective, set my Celestron PowerTank on the slit window ledge thing, and turned on the large white light.  I then remembered that I probably wasn't quite in focus with the new filter wheel, but I figured I'd take them anyway.  Once that was done, it was still super cloudy, but there were a couple of tiny suckerholes through which I could see Castor and Pollux.  So I slewed up there, threw on the Bahtinov mask, and focused as best I could with a fuzzy diffraction pattern image (see more about that here).

Spikes are still centered!  Bahtinov masks are great.

While slewing, it sounded like the motors were having a bit of a hard time, so I decided to go ahead and change the balance on the mount, since I'm the main person using it (and anyone using it with just an eyepiece won't miss being balanced as much as I will!).  It was pretty decently out of balance in both RA and dec, so I adjusted that, and then went and sat inside to wait for the clouds to clear.  I decided I'd wait till 11 PM.

The Astro Imaging Channel broadcast started a little before I came back inside, so I hopped on from my cell phone since the cell signal is better than our wifi here.  I haven't gotten that to work in the past, so that was fun!  I stayed on after to chat with the another panelists, from whom I always get great info.

Around 10:30, I poked my head out, and it had cleared out pretty significantly!  And the stars looked steady, plus I could see a lot of them, so the seeing and transparency were probably pretty decent.

Worry not, I turned off the lights before starting to image.

So I scooted out to the dome to get rolling.  I loaded my previous alignment model that I'd saved to the computer, slewed to Arcturus to check focus, and it was nearly in the crosshairs!  Goto on the Celestron CGX-L we have out in the memorial dome is pretty excellent.  I calibrated guiding there, and then slewed to M82, the Cigar Galaxy, which was my chosen target.  I thought about taking more hydrogen alpha imagery, but I wanted to use my new filter wheel!  I tested a 3-minute luminance frame and the stars looked solid, and then I tested a 5-minute frame and it still looked good!  And the guide plot looked great.  Now, imaging that close to the north celestial pole makes an easy job of guiding because the RA axis is moving very little, but maybe my balancing also helped.  I'll have to see when I image somewhere farther from the pole.


Flipping across the meridian, which is usually a scary process because of all my cables, was quite painless this time around.  M82 ended up a tad high in the frame though, and Sequence Generator Pro is soooooooo slow at downloading even the frame & focus frames that it's hard to get something re-centered.  But I didn't want to swap back over to the faster SharpCap because I didn't want to wait for it to re-cool, and getting AstroTortilla to grab the image when it's connected to SGP is dicey, and I haven't figured out how to plate solve and center in SGP yet, so I just did it myself.

All too soon, midnight rolled around, and I did have to work in the morning, so I packed up and headed home.  I got through 17x300s subframes on the luminance channel (so didn't really use the automation on the filter wheel, boo), so I'll have to collect the RGB and H-alpha next time I'm out.  Here's a single screen-stretched luminance frame:

Single subframe (300s)
Date: 31 March 2019
Object: M82 Cigar Galaxy
Attempt: 3
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
Telescope: Meade 127mm ED apo f/9 (club's)
Accessories: Starlight Xpress 2-inch filter wheel, Astronomik Type 2c LRGB 2-inch filters
Mount: Celestron CGX-L
Guide scope: Celestron 102mm
Guide camera: QHY5

A successful night!  And somewhat representative of the month of March as well -- in like a lion, out like a lamb.

Here's the timelapse video: