Showing posts with label Star Trails. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Star Trails. Show all posts

Sunday, July 28, 2019

#197 - Tuesday, July 9, 2019 - Shooting with an Astro-DSLR

I managed once again to sleep in until 12:45 PM, and thank goodness!  I was starting to feel more adjusted to the altitude, and all three of us felt ready to go do some daytime exploring.  So I copied last night's data off of my memory cards, drank a hearty cup of coffee, and we left at 2:30 PM to go to dome sightseeing.

Our first stop was the Valle de la Luna, or "Valley of the Moon," but they only allow car entry between 8 AM and 1 PM, so we missed our chance.  Try again tomorrow...so instead we set our GPS for one of the sites in the salt flats, Salar de Atacama.  On the highway, we crossed the line of the Tropic of Capricorn!


Salar de Atacama was both the name of the general area, and supposedly a particular lagoon in the salt flats.  Unlike salt flats in other parts of the world, the one here in the Atacama Desert was not really that flat.  Well, the landscape was flat, but the salt formed stalagmites that stuck up out of the ground!  We pulled off to give it a closer look, and it was extremely hard stuff.  The salt chunks were also very sharp -- I was glad I had my hiking boots on with Vibram soles!  It also sounded hollow in places.  John used his Leatherman and some other tools he had in his pockets to bang on the crystalline structures, and with the different tones, he was making some music!  It was very cool and also very strange.


We wound up not finding a particular location or lagoon of Salar de Atacama, so we drove back northward to try Laguna Cejar.  But my phone's GPS said we wouldn't get there till 6:30 -- after sunset.  So we just drove back to the Atacama Lodge instead.  A day of bad luck!  But the drive was gorgeous, so there's that at least.  There were rocks strewn everywhere from volcanic eruptions, and there were some places where the road was washed out due to an earthquake re-routing a stream and launching all kinds of water down the mountain.  We also passed by the entrance to the radio telescope array ALMA, and we could see the workshop from the road.


Once we got back to the lodge, I went and found Alain to ask for help re-polar-aligning my Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer again once it got dark, and to get a status update on the Sky-Watcher AZEQ6 mount I was supposed to be borrowing, but it had quit working.  He said since he couldn't fix it right away, I could instead borrow an astro-modified Sony a7s with a Rokinon 135mm f/2.8 lens!  I was so all over that.  Astro-modified means that a standard DSLR camera has had its spectrum filter removed.  Consumer cameras has a special filter on the camera chip that passes the different wavelengths of visible light (the colors) at different amounts in a way that matches how the human eye responds to color.  This way, images come out looking mostly like how you saw them in real life.  However, the human eye is not particularly sensitive to red, which unfortunately is what a lot of the pretty stuff in the universe emits, especially nebulae.  With the spectrum filter removed, far more red can make it to the camera chip, which increases your signal-to-noise ratio at those wavelengths by quite a bit.  I've seen some amazing images from astro-modified DSLRs.  I've thought about doing it myself, but I think I'll save the money and get a color astro camera instead (such as the ZWO ASI1600MC, the color version of my ASI1600MM Pro) so that I can also have the cooling system.

We had a few issues at the start getting it rolling though.  It had one of those spare battery and memory card compartments attached to it, and for some reason it wasn't liking some of the batteries.  So we finally put just one battery in instead of two, and it seemed happier.  Then, when I was scrolling through the menu options (after having Alain help me change it from French to English), it kept seeming to push buttons on its own!  Finally I called Alain over to take a look, and he just gave me another astro-modified Sony a7s to use instead.  That one seemed to work.  

The Sony a7s is a mirrorless camera, meaning that much like point-and-shoot cameras and video cameras, the viewfinder is electronic.  In order to actually see anything, the image gets stretched quite a bit, so it was far easier to get the camera pointed at what I want, since I could see it on the screen so easily!  It also went up to stupidly high ISO values, like 64,000 (not 6400, 64,000!).  

Now, the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer actually has two camera-connection screws: one on top of the declination adjustment plate, and one further down on the dovetail.  So what did I do?  Yes that's right.  I put both DSLRs on it - the Sony a7s, and my own Nikon D5300!  Actually, having the D5300 in the lower camera spot, which is toward the middle of the camera-counterweight balance point, helped balance it quite a bit, which was perfect.  The only issue I ran into was that I had to point the cameras carefully, since they would run into each other.  It meant I couldn't quite point both where I wanted to, but I got close enough.  I wound up swapping out the 300mm lens for the 35mm to avoid problems.

Simply glorious -- allllll the imaging!

It was a challenge to focus the Rokinon lens since the focus point was very tight!  But I finally got close, and then pointed the Sony toward Eta Carinae and the Running Chicken Nebula area.  I had to rotate it sideways to avoid seeing a refractor at the front of the shed.  I set the exposure time to 30s because at ISO-1600, one minute was overexposing the image!  The images looked very red due to the lack of spectrum filter, but that will all come out in processing.    Then I pointed the D5300 up to the Rho Ophiuchi region, which took a while to finesse into place so that I could get the most of the dust clouds, but not also get super-bright Jupiter in the scene.

Once that was all set and rolling, I wandered back over to the scopes to see what John and Beth were up to.  John had the 28-inch looking up at Jupiter, which was incredible in the eyepiece!  So bright, and so much detail.  It's so much higher down there than it is up in the US, plus the skies were very clear and steady.  It was breezy out, which made it feel much colder, and the moon was still up and brightening the sky, so we went inside to warm up and wait for it to set.  In the meantime, we worked through some wine we had bought and needed to finish before we left on Thursday.

I went back to the shed later to swap batteries and re-position cameras, including on my Nikon D3100, which I had set up on my mini-tripod to do star trails/timelapse facing south over the robotic scope domes.  

Then it was back to more visual observing -- M25 open cluster, Sculptor/Silver Dollar Galaxy again, NGC 1365, Stephan's Quintet, more Tarantula Nebula, and more 47 Tucanae.  NGC 1365 is a gorgeous barred spiral galaxy in the constellation Fornax, and I could see its shape!  Very very cool.  It's about 60 million lightyears away.  I also tried to find the Bug Nebula, but was unsuccessful.  At some point, I went back over to the shed and changed the Sony to imaging the Large Magellanic Cloud, and the D5300 over to both clouds with its 35mm lens.

Large Magellanic Cloud single frame at f/2, ISO-1600, 30s
Don't worry, the red will process out...

Single frame at f/2.2, ISO-1600, 60s
Caught a meteor in one of the frames!

After over an hour of imaging at those spots, I discovered that I had accidentally left the D5300 set on 10s instead of Bulb from when I was centering the Magellanic Clouds!  It had been imaging for quite a while at that point, but I switched it back to Bulb anyway for the 60s images I had set on the intervalometer.  At 5 AM, I was tired and ready for bed, but since it was still dark until about 6 AM, I left the cameras running this time.  I had started the Sky-Watcher far enough east that I was pretty sure it wouldn't hit the mount before I woke up to shut off the power, and the shed would close at sunrise to protect from the sun (I was pointing south anyway, away from the sun).  Plus, the batteries would die at some point.  So I left it running and went to bed.  

Another fabulous night (and day)!


[ Update July 27, 2019 ] 

Large Magellanic Cloud

Still plowing through datasets...so many left to go!  But each one is a joy!

Here's the Large Magellanic Cloud, from the astro-modified Sony a7s with the Rokinon 135mm f/2 lens, both borrowed from the Atacama Lodge owner, Alain Maury.

Date: 9 July 2019
Location: Atacama Lodge, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Object: Large Magellanic Cloud
Attempt: 1
Camera: Sony a7s (Alain Maury's)
Telescope: Rokinon 135mm f/2 lens at f/2
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 259x30s (2h9m30s)
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Acquisition method: Intervalometer
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 0
Biases: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: 30-32F

😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Wowee!  So much detail!  So cool!!
The Large Magellanic Cloud is a dwarf galaxy that is very close to our own -- only 160,000 lightyears away.  It was previously thought to be orbiting the Milky Way galaxy, but we now know from velocity measurements that it's actually just passing through, although it's expected to collide with us in about 2.4 billion years.  It's a disrupted barred spiral galaxy, with the disruption being due to the gravitational interaction between the LMC and the Milky Way.  It's easily visible naked-eye from relatively dark places, and from the darkness of the Atacama Lodge, I could make out structure, especially with averted vision.  It's home to the massive and incredible Tarantula Nebula as well.

Using an astro-modified Sony a7s was fun!  The images were very low-noise -- I didn't have to do any denoising at all while processing these, and I don't even have dark or bias frames for calibration!  The stars were also nice and small, and the detail was just awesome, largely due to the lack of noise I think.  When can I get one of these??

My PixInsight process was as follows:
- Since no darks/biases, started with SubframeSelector
- Scale: 12.82 arcsec/px
- Gain: 0.316 e/ADU (est.)
- Highest-score frame: DSC00136 (86.020)
- Debayered
- Registered with StarAlignment
- Stacked with ImageIntegration
- Combination: Average
- Normalization: Additive
- Pixel rejection: Linear Fit
- Cropped with DynamicCrop
- Applied DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- Color correction with PhotometricColorCalibration
- Applied deconvolution with Deconvolution, with a PSF generated from the image with DynamicPSF, 30 iterations, range_mask - star_mask masking
-  Adjusted curves with CurvesTransformation and ColorSaturation
- Enhanced contrast with HDRMultiscaleTransform

Large and Small Magellanic Clouds together

This one was with my own Nikon D5300!  Like I mentioned, I accidentally took a ton of 10s photos before I realized it and switch to 60s, but together I got about an hour and 45 minutes out of it.  And it came out quite well!

Date: 9 July 2019
Location: Atacama Lodge, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Object: Magellanic Clouds
Attempt: 2
Camera: Nikon D5300
Telescope: Nikon 35mm f/1.8G @ f/2.2
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 48x60s
   355x10s
   Total: 1h47m10s
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Acquisition method: Intervalometer
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 72 (30F)
Biases: 20 (28F)
Flats: 0
Temperature: 29-30F

Not much is visible of the Tarantula here, but the globular cluster 47 Tucanae shines bright just beside the SMC.  The stars in my 35mm lens often come out with a pink-magenta-ish tinge, so I had to use a star mask that I enlarged a bit in order to reduce the pink-purple saturation just for the stars.

My PixInsight process:
- Generated master bias & superbias
- Calibrated darks with superbias, integrated with ImageIntegration
- Showed a weird pattern down at the bottom of the frame - calibrated with master bias instead and stacked, looked much better
- Calibrated 10s frames with master bias, and 60s frames with master bias and master dark
- SubframeSelector:
- Scale: 23.07 arcsec/px
- Gain: 0.115 e/ADU
- Highest-scoring 60s frame: DSC_0735 (89.446)
- Debayered
- Registered with StarAlignment
- Stacked with ImageIntegration
- Linear Fit clipping
- Combination: Average
- Normalization: Additive
- Cropped with DynamicCrop
- DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- Denoise with MultiscaleLinearTransform, with lum mask
- Color corrected with PhotometricColorCalibration
- Tried Deconvolution with generated PSF and range_mask-star_mask, but wasn't doing much
- Stretched with HistogramTransformation
- Reduced pink tinge in stars with ColorSaturation and star mask
- Applied HDRMultiscaleTransform, 9 iterations
- Dilated star mask, tried reducing magenta star tone with ColorSaturation again
- Cropped again to cut out telescope shadow and some coma
- Applied ACDNR for some additional noise reduction in brighter areas

Eta Carinae & Friends

This was one of the first datasets I processed after I got home because I was so excited about capturing hydrogen regions with the Sony a7s.  And I was not disappointed!!

Date: 9 July 2019
Location: Atacama Lodge, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Object: Eta Carinae Nebula and Running Chicken Nebula
Attempt: 3
Camera: Sony A7s (borrowed)
Telescope: Rokinon 135mm f/2 (borrowed)
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 43x30s
Gain/ISO: ISO-800
Acquisition method: Intervalometer
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 0
Biases: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: mid-40s

Just look at all of those stars!!  And they look nice and tight, with tons of detail on the nebulae!  And loads of dark nebula streaks.  I am super excited about this one.

Here's my PixInsight process:
- No darks or biases, so went straight to SubframeSelection:
- Scale: 12.82 arcsec/px
- Gain: 0.158 e/ADU (est.)
- Highest-scoring frame: DSC09400 (94.882)
- Debayered
- Registered with StarAlignment
- Stacked with ImageIntegration
- Combination: Average
- Norm: Average
- Pixel rejection: Linear fit clipping
- Applied DynamicBackgroundExtraction
- Literal tears in my eyes!
- Denoised with MultiscaleLinearTransform
- Didn't necessarily need it, but softened the image a bit in a good way
- Color correction with PhotometricColorCalibration
- Deconvolution with generated PSF from DynamicPSF, range_mask-star_mask, 30 iterations
- Stretched with HistogramTransformation
- Fine-tuned with CurvesTransformation
- Ran DarkStructureEnhance script

Yes, when I ran the DynamicBackgroundExtraction process after carefully adjusting every sample point so as not to be over a star or nebulosity, by jaw hit the floor.  It was so beautiful!


DynamicBackgroundExtraction forever!!

I will write a blog post on my new workflow and provide a step-by-step.  I haven't had time -- it takes a ton of time to do that!  But I will, I promise!

[ Update August 17, 2019 ] 

Still working through my Chile data...very excited about this image of the Milky Way with the Sony a7s and Rokinon 135mm lens!  Got some nice detail in the twisting dust clouds, and some nice color.

Date: 9 July 2019
Location: Atacama Lodge, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Object: Milky Way (Sagittarius)
Attempt: 10
Camera: Sony a7s (ILCE-7S) (astro-modified)
Telescope: Rokinon 135mm f/2 @ f/2
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 236x30s  (1h58m)
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Acquisition method: Intervalometer
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 0
Biases: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: 40-45F ish

Here, we are looking at several nebulae, star clusters, and a ton of dark molecular dust in the core of the Milky Way. The big pinkish nebula right of center is M8, the Lagoon Nebula, with M20, the Trifid Nebula, lying just below and to the right. Just to the right of M20 is open cluster M21. The large open cluster in the lower right of the image is M23, which contains about 150 stars in an area 20 lightyears wide. Close inspection of the image reveals a lot of intricate detail in the twisting dust clouds above and below the main dark band of the galactic center.

PixInsight process:
- No darks/biases, so started with SubframeSelector:
- Scale: 12.82 arcsec/px
- Gain: 0.316 e/ADU (est.)
- Highest-scoring frame: DSC09658 (85.816)
- Debayered
- Registered with StarAlignment
- Stacked with ImageIntegration
- Combination: Average
- Normalization: Additive
- Pixel rejection: Linear Fit clipping
- Tried denoising with MultiscaleLinearTransform, but didn't really need it, and killed the 
dimmer stars
- Color corrected with PhotometricColorCalibration
- Same as 1, but I did Deconvolution with range-star mask, PSF from DynamicPSF, 15 iterations
- Stretched with MaskedStretch
- Adjusted with CurvesTransformation
- Cropped to center portion that I liked more
- More CurvesTransformation
- DarkStructureEnhance

So much fun :D

[ Update August 31, 2019 ] 

Almost through all of my Chile data!  Tons of great widefield Milky Way shots.  Here's another one!

Date: 9 July 2019
Location: Atacama Lodge, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Object: Milky Way
Attempt: 11
Camera: Nikon D5300
Telescope: Nikon 35mm f/1.8G @ f/1.8
Accessories: N/A
Mount: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer
Guide scope: N/A
Guide camera: N/A
Subframes: 171x60s (2h51m)
Gain/ISO: ISO-1600
Acquisition method: Intervalometer
Stacking program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Post-Processing program: PixInsight 1.8.6
Darks: 46F: 56
   40F: 40
   34F: 20
Biases: 46F: 20
40F: 20 (actually 42F)
34F: 0
Flats: 0
Temperature: 35-47F

I learned something interesting in processing this dataset.  The first half of the night had a pretty bright moon (hence the large temperature difference through the dataset), so I stacked the image twice: once with all of the images (that made it through quality check), and once with just the ones without moonlight.  There was actually not much difference at the end of the day between the two datasets!  I had to do some extra gradient removal on the moonlit one, but it wasn't too hard, and I actually liked the result better.  Here's the one without any moonlit frames (which amounted to be 70x60s):



The blue gradient is still there (I didn't try to remove it in this one), and I prefer the look of the first image.  (The main reason the two look different is just slightly different processing -- I didn't save out every process to exactly repeat all of the steps).  So that is a really interesting result -- I can do just about as well with moonlight as without!  For bright objects like the Milky Way, at least.  Processing can do a lot for you if done well.





Sunday, March 24, 2019

#178 - Saturday, March 23, 2019 - If it's not one thing, it's another

Since I haven't gotten out much in the last couple months due to being away from home, I'm itching for some starlight!  The forecast was mixed across all my weather apps, with some showing clouds rolling in around 9, while others held off till midnight.  I figured it would probably be a bunch of that thin high hazy stuff, and besides, the moon was just a few days past full.  So I decided that it would be a good night for experimentation, since if things didn't go well, at least I hadn't wasted a good night.  I invited fellow astronomy club member Kevin out again, who is interested in learning astrophotography, and brought my Nikon D5300 and Vixen Polarie for him to play with while I worked on some stuff with the club's memorial telescope.  Fellow club member Rich was also out there, who was planning on doing some binocular observing.

I had three personal goals for the evening:
- Check to see if the polar alignment on the memorial scope held after I tightened all the bolts last time
- Measure how long it will guide for
- Acquire some images with my new Astronomik 12nm Hydrogen Alpha filter my uncle gave me :D:D

I opened up and plugged in the memorial dome, and booted up the mount, which unfortunately did not offer to un-hibernate itself -- it would appear that someone used it and didn't fill in the logbook (probably someone came out to qualify on it after last weekend's public stargaze), and didn't hibernate it.  So I would have to re-align, darn!  But first, I needed to check the polar alignment. Last time I was out, I polar aligned the memorial scope's Celestron CGX-L mount and tightened down all the bolts.  It appears to have helped -- I only had about an arcminute of error this time instead of over a degree, which isn't great, but was better.  I used the pro version of SharpCap to do the polar alignment, which is super handy and easy and just requires that you have a camera plugged into the scope, which of course I already have.  Luckily, whoever used it last weekend didn't adjust the focuser, so my camera as already in focus.  I tuned the polar alignment, and then set about doing the alignment.  However, after entering the time and date, the hand controller told me that there were no stars above the filter limits!  So I double-checked the time, date, time zone, and GPS coordinates, and all were accurate.  I re-booted the scope, but this was tricky because the hand controller has a backup battery so that you don't lose alignment during a brief power outage -- a handy feature at star parties, but at the moment, the bane of my existence in trying to do a hard reboot.  Unplugging the hand controller from the mount didn't help.  I finally got it to reboot, but still got the same warning.  Finally after a couple of tries, I got it to show me some stars, although it only showed like five.  One of them was Caph, which was indeed up, but very low in the north.  I also tried Castor, but it pointed the scope somewhere east that was definitely not anywhere near Gemini.

I went inside to flip through the manual on my cell phone and think about what to do, and the idea occurred to me to try running it through my computer, like what I used to have to do on the Losmandy Gemini mount we had in that dome previously because the hand controller's buttons stopped working.  So I went to Celestron's website and downloaded the PWI application to my phone, and then Bluetoothed it to my tablet (I couldn't get good enough cell phone reception in the area of the memorial dome to be close enough to tether my tablet to my phone, and the observatory's wifi was down).  Finally, I installed the program, plugged the mount directly into my computer via USB (the CGX-L has a dedicated USB port, meaning you can skip the hand controller entirely).  At last, a stroke of luck -- it connected immediately!  I went through the alignment procedure in the app, which unfortunately had far fewer stars to choose from than the hand controller.  It got a bit tricky though because I had to have the slew buttons window active in order to press the keyboard arrow keys to move the mount, but you couldn't minimize the main application and just have the slew buttons up, and I needed to also be able to see the camera image.  My tablet has a high-resolution screen, but it's still only 10 inches diagonally, and the Celestron app wouldn't properly half-screen; it still took up like two-thirds of the screen.  But the SharpCap window went half-screen well, so I was able to have both windows open at once and get the star in the crosshairs.  I added two western stars and one eastern, and called it good.  (Sorry I forgot to take screenshots!)

Okay, finally aligned.  Leaving my filter wheel attached because without it I can't get far enough away from the scope to focus (it has a looooong backfocus, which is very handy for astrophotography), I screwed on my new hydrogen alpha (Ha) filter to the end of the barrel, and checked that the filter wheel was on Luminance.  (In hindsight, I forgot that I had an empty slot that I could have used instead).  I slewed over to Betelgeuse to focus both my imaging and guide cameras.  My imaging camera on the main scope was not only in focus, but perfect focus already with the Bahtinov mask!  Even with the added filter (which didn't add any length since it went inside the tube, but a filter's index of refraction can sometimes change the focal point ever so slightly).  You know, I always say I want more people to use the memorial scope, but secretly I don't because I like not having to re-focus and re-align every time I go out there ;)  I checked the guide camera focus, and it was good enough.  Then in the Celestron app, I wanted to slew to the Horsehead, but it's not in the Celestron catalog, nor are any Barnard catalog numbers, so I just went to the Flame instead to test (which it doesn't know by name, but the Flame Nebula does have an NGC number, NGC 2024).  I saw that Alnitak, the leftmost Orion's Belt star, which is right next to the Flame, was a bit up and to the right, so I slewed the scope using my keyboard again down a bit to get it where I wanted based on looking at the orientation in SkySafari.  After calibrating the autoguiding app PHD (which also went smoothly, thankfully -- the Celestron PWI app showed up as a driver!), I acquired a 3-minute test image.  And there it was!  Unfortunately, since I was in SharpCap, it didn't save :( But it looked quite nice.

I wanted to image the Horsehead Nebula though, so I pulled up the celestial coordinates in SkySafari, slewed there, and then flipped over to Sequence Generator Lite to start imaging.  (I like the way it names files, the stuff it puts in the FITS header, and other features that are easier to access than in SharpCap.)  PHD's guide graph was not looking good (again, forgot a screenshot, but my total RMS was like 2 arcseconds).  Then, Sequence Generator kept crashing when it tried to connect to the camera.  So I went back to SharpCap, and it wouldn't connect either!  I unplugged and replugged the USB cable for the camera, but no dice.  So I quit PHD and the Celestron app and unplugged the USB hub, then plugged back in.  Camera was back, woot!  I opened it in Sequence Generator, set the settings, re-started PHD (it saves the last calibration by default now, which is super handy), and also restarted the Celestron app (it needs to be running for PHD to talk to it).  But when I went back over to the Celestron app, it did not save the alignment!  And I couldn't even find any buttons that would have let me.  I decided to experiment with going through the hand controller USB instead of directly to the mount so I could test whether it would save alignment if I went that way, and I was able to connect.  By the time I added a couple of alignment stars and got back on the Horsehead Nebula, it was dropping down below the main observatory building, and there was a bunch of cloud cover.  So much for that.

But I was back up and running, and wanted to image something.  I flipped through the SkySafari "tonight's best" list to see what glowed in hydrogen alpha that was up, which in the springtime isn't much because it's galaxy season.  (I am really excited to use my Ha filter to get the gorgeous red star forming regions in other galaxies, but since this was a test night, I wanted a big easy target like a nebula).  M82, the Cigar Galaxy, was on the list, and it has giant hydrogen jets coming out of it that I have been dying to capture.  So I slewed over to there, started acquiring, aaaand I swear I heard the scope slew or something, and then guiding was just totally borked, even after I acquired a new guide star.  Finally I threw in the towel -- it was almost midnight, the clouds were getting thicker, and the moon was rising, so I a) wouldn't be able to do a proper guiding test because the bad atmosphere would mess with the results, and b) I wouldn't be able to get any good hydrogen alpha images.

One thing I did achieve for the evening was setting up a timelapse on the memorial dome.  I only got about 26 seconds of video out of it, and it's not terribly exciting, so I'll hold onto the clip for an observatory compilation video I'm planning on making this summer.  But timelapse video can be dual-purposed as a star trail image too, so here's that!


In addition, Kevin got some practice focusing the 55-200mm lens on my Nikon D5300, although he ended up not imaging because he was watching the live entertainment show of me struggle-bussing with the Celestron CGX-L instead.  😂 Rich also joined the show and didn't even pull out binoculars!  It was indeed an instructive evening.  I got to try out the new Celestron mount control software and see all the features it lacked that I needed (where's Precise Goto?  Goto home position?  Save alignment?  Load last alignment?  There was a "configuration" button that had some stuff in it, but not even half of what you can access from the hand controller!), and I got to try out my hydrogen alpha filter.  Hopefully next time I can get some good results!  And I'll come prepared with either having this software figured out, or having some other piece of software to control it.


Monday, September 17, 2018

#161 - Saturday, September 15, 2018 - The Comet and the Supernova

Sometimes, going out to the observatory on a particular night is a bad idea.  And sometimes I do it anyway, despite my better judgment.  And sometimes it turns out to be a really good idea anyway!  On Saturday, I ran a 10k race early that morning, getting up at 5 AM.  The race started at 7:30 AM, and it was already in the lower 70s.  It stayed overcast during the race, but it was also muggy, so I was roasting hot by the end.  Despite my water-drinking efforts of the prior 24 hours, I still managed to become dehydrated, and I threw up in my friend's front yard, on her stairs, and then finally in her toilet.  Exhausted and sick, I made it home and took two 1-hour naps broken up by drinking water and eating some toast.

"Normal" people might have said, "Y'know, I probably shouldn't be out late tonight.  I should just go to bed."  But being normal is boring, so you bet your derriere I still went out to the observatory!

I was already still set up from Thursday night, so at least I didn't have to haul any gear around.  Just my DSLR, tripod, and bag with warm clothes, bug spray, and extra water and Gatorade.  I still had some hydrating to do.

I got out there around 8 PM, uncovered my Celestron AVX, Borg 76mm apochromatic refractor, and ZWO ASI1600MM Pro from underneath the TeleGizmos 365 cover I'd placed over the whole thing on Thursday night.  Once it got dark enough, I re-polar aligned (the setup is so lightweight, I was fairly certain that putting on and taking off the cover had moved it slightly) and then re-aligned.  However, while my western sky stars were showing up in the mount's initial guess easily, the eastern stars were not.  So I shut it off, re-polar aligned again, and then tried again.  The western stars were good, and the eastern ones were still a little ways off, and I had to use my finderscope to place them in the camera's FOV.  My target for the evening was continuing the Eastern Veil Nebula, NGC 6992.  I acquired the luminance frames on Thursday, so it was time for color frames.  I tried to use AstroTortilla to plate solve, but it was having trouble, so I gave up and tried to center the nebula myself.  I ended up a decent ways off of the luminance frames, unfortunately, although I still had the whole thing in the field.

Guiding was no better Saturday night than it was Thursday, unfortunately.  I tried guiding in just one direction again, and it helped a little, but not much, and then the dec axis took off and never came back.  As the night wore on, it just kept getting worse.  I did eventually re-focus the guide camera and re-calibrate guiding, but to no avail.

Finally, fellow club member John and I decided to pop open the dec casing to take a peak inside.  Sometimes, plastic shavings from the casing can get caught up in the gears.  We didn't see anything unusual though in the gears attached to the motor, but the worm gear was deeper inside the mount and would've required taking off a bunch of stuff to get to, so we ended up just putting it back together.  Further research is required.

In addition to that, I was having issues with my Hotech self-centering field flattener.  The 2-inch barrel at the end is just a little too fat to easily get into a 2-inch eyepiece holder, so I have to jam it into the one that screws into the Borg, and then take the Borg out of its ring clamps in order to screw the field flattener, filter wheel, and camera on as one piece because the filter wheel otherwise hits the dovetail bar and I can't actually screw it on.  Despite how hard it is to get into the eyepiece holder, it was still wiggling around, even though I had it tightened down.  Unfortunately, I didn't realize it was flopping around until much later in the evening.  

I'm starting to get suuuuuper frustrated with my gear.  I've put too much effort into this to be dealing with this crap!

Anyway, despite the problems, and the field flattener not flattening very well because it's too far from the camera with the filter wheel in between (I'm working on finding a male or female T-thread to 2-inch eyepiece holder so I can put it the correct distance from the camera), I managed to get at least a couple of color frames per channel that didn't have absolutely craptacular guiding.  I just reset the guide star about every 10 minutes, and was able to get some usable subframes.  

While processing the Veil Nebula on Sunday afternoon and seeing how bad my luminance frames really were, I decided to try something new to me - using my RGB frames together to create a synthetic luminance frame.  It's actually super easy, and the result was pretty good.

For this image, since I'm still practicing on better data with PixInsight, I used DeepSkyStacker to register and stack the RGB frames, and then I pulled each stacked R, G, and B frame into Photoshop and stretched and denoised them (using Deep Space Noise Reduction in Carboni's Tools).  I then combined them into one image (done by creating a new image, and copying and pasting each color image into the reg, green, and blue channels of the new image, respectively), and created a copy.  Next, I went to Image -> Mode -> Lab Color on the copy, clicked the Channels tab in Layers, and copied and pasted the Lightness channel into its down new document.  This is your synthetic luminance.  Then I copied that image on top of the RGB combined image, and set the blend mode as Luminosity, like I normally would for applying an L image.  Then I just went about processing from there, adjusting color balance and curves and saturation and the like.  (See this tutorial for a full walkthrough of my normal LRGB stacking and processing process with DeepSkyStacker and Photoshop).  It came out pretty well!  Plus I didn't have to worry about cropping out the big offset between my L image and the RGB images.  
Date: 15 September 2018
Object: NGC 6992 Eastern Veil Nebula
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
Telescope: Borg 76ED
Accessories: Hotech SCA field flattener, Astronomik LRGB Type 2c 1.25" filters
Mount: Celestron AVX
Guide scope: Orion 50mm mini-guider
Guide camera: QHY5L-II 
Subframes: R: 8x180s (24m)
   G: 5x180s (15m)
   B: 6x180s (24m)
Gain/ISO: 139
Stacking program: 1: DeepSkyStacker
Stacking method (lights): Median kappa-sigma clipping (2,5)
Darks: 20
Biases: 20
Flats: 0
Temperature: -20C (chip), 66F (ambient)

Even though my Borg is an apo, which means it's supposed to not have chromatic aberration, I was getting some blue halos around the brighter stars.  They weren't nearly as pronounced as the ones I get on one of the club's telescopes, a Vixen 140mm neo-achromat refractor, and were easily correctable using Noel Carboni's Reduce Small/Large Blue Halos routines.  I also don't have any flat frames for this setup yet, since I have to pull out the drawtube on the Borg a little bit to reach focus, and it rotates freely, and I haven't really settled on the way I connect all the parts and pieces together to be able to draw reference marks so I can use the same flat frames every time.  So there's a bit of a glow in the middle.  But still, not bad for an hour's worth of data from a light-polluted location!  It's almost as good as the one I took of it on my DSLR from the Green Bank Star Quest last year, and that was doing 7-minute subframes from a very dark location!

The Eastern Veil Nebula is part of the larger Veil Nebula, or Cygnus Loop.  It's the remnant of a supernova that exploded 8,000 years ago, and now the nebula is 50 lightyears across!  It's approximately 1,470 lightyears away in the constellation Cygnus, the Swan, which is high overhead in the summer and early fall.  The original star was 20 times the mass of our sun.

By the time I got through all of the RGB frames, it was nearly 3 AM.  This was a lot later than I'd planned on staying out, but it's a lot easier to stay out late when you have friends there!  Fellow club member Bob was there as well, and my minion Miqaela, who had her Orion ST-80 on her Celestron AVX and was imaging the Heart Nebula and the Silver Dollar (Sculptor) Galaxy with her Nikon D5300.  John reminded us that Comet 21P/Giacobini-Zinner was rising by about that time, and I decided that I had to take this opportunity to catch it!  So I slewed over to its current location at the feet of Gemini, the Twins, just above star Propus.  Getting RGB images on a comet with a monochrome camera is not impossible, but is very difficult, especially with a manual filter wheel, so I decided just to take luminance monochrome images instead.  Because my guiding was so bad, I just took a bunch of 30-second frames, which were plenty to see this magnitude +7 comet.  In fact, I even aimed a pair of handheld binoculars that direction, and was just barely able to see its smudge!

Comets move with regard to the background stars, and move fairly quickly.  Thus, DeepSkyStacker has a few different comet stacking modes: align on the stars but streak the comet (standard stacking mode), align on the comet and streak the stars, or run registration and stacking twice and align both.  I did all three, but the align on the comet and the stars made for some really weird streaking artifacts in the background of the image, so I just went with the streaked stars, steady comet version.  Now, for added fun, DSS can't detect where the comet is located, so you have to do it yourself.  I had 50 frames, so I painstakingly selected the comet in every frame.  Luckily, it saves that information to the text file that contains the registration info for each frame, so you only have to do it once.  Using median kappa-sigma clipping made the stars get all weird and fuzzy and dim, but they looked much better when I used auto-adaptive weighted average as the stacking mode instead.
 Date: 15 September 2018
Object: Comet 21P/Giacobini-Zinner
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro
Telescope: Borg 76ED
Accessories: Astronomik L Type 2c 1.25" filter
Mount: Celestron AVX
Guide scope: Orion 50mm mini-guider
Guide camera: QHY5L-II
Subframes: 50x30s (25m)
Gain/ISO: 139
Stacking program: DeepSkyStacker
Stacking method (lights): Auto-adaptive weighted average
Darks: 20
Biases: 20
Flats: 0
Temperature: -20C (chip)

The gaps are a result of the many bad frames I had to delete.  I originally took 70.  Stupid mount and its tracking problems.

But anyways, you can see the tail!!  That is star Propus at the bottom.
Comet 21P was discovered by Michael Giacobini in December 1900 at the Nice Observatory in France, and Ernst Zinner observed its return 6.5 years later.  When I imaged it on Saturday night, it was 0.4 AU (astronomical units, or the Earth-Sun distance) from Earth, or 36.9 million miles.  

In addition to the above image, I also wanted to make a video.  To do that, I realized I could use PixInsight to apply the same processing to every image, and convert them all from FITS to JPEG after so I could make the video.  FITS is a special astronomy format that most everyday image editing programs don't support.

First, I needed to calibrate - subtract dark and bias frames to reduce noise.  I used the BathPreProcessing script for this, and saved out each file as a new image.  Next, I registered each frame to the frame the DeepSkyStacker gave the highest score to when I was processing the stacked image above so that the stars would be steady, and you could see the comet move through them without the jitter of the mount's crappy tracking.  Each of those aligned images were saved out.  Next, I imported one of the frames and applied a screen stretch using ScreenTransferFunction, and then applied that to HistogramTransformation to actually stretch the image.  I minimized that process and opened up a MultiScaleLinearTransform process to apply noise reduction (following the settings in the Light Vortex Astronomy tutorial I used recently on an Andromeda Galaxy image of mine), and then minimized that too.  After some Googling, I right-clicked on the background screen and clicked ImageContainer, and then opened all of my light frames in it.  I could only figure out how to apply one step at a time, so first I applied the HistogramTransformation process to stretch, and then re-imported all of the stretched images I saved out, and then applied the MultiScaleLinearTransform noise reduction.  Then I used the BatchFormatConversion script and converted all of the PixInsight-format images to 8-bit JPGs.  Finally, I used Time Lapse Movie Monkey to generate the video.  The slowest it would do was 10 frames per second, but that turned out to be fine.  So the video is only 5 seconds long (I need to make a repeating version next), but it's super cool!  
The video spans 33 minutes of real time.

Aaaaaaggghhhhhhh soooooo cooooooollllll!!!!!!!!

All the while I was imaging the Eastern Veil Nebula and Comet 21P, I had my DSLR on a tripod taking a series of 30s images facing north to make a star trails image.  They're super easy to create - I've got a tutorial in this post.  This is the longest one I think I've done, 5 hours and 20 minutes.  What you're seeing here is the rotation of the Earth on its axis that creates our day-night cycle.  The bright streak near the center of the vortex is Polaris, the North Star.  As you can see, it's not exactly on the North Celestial Pole, the center of that rotation, but it's quite close.  The pole is at the same altitude as your latitude, so if you live on the 40 N parallel, it will be 40 degrees above the horizon.  From the North Pole, it would be straight overhead.  From the equator, on the horizon.  In the southern hemisphere, they can see the South Celestial Pole, and use it for polar alignment instead.
Nikon D5300, 18-55mm lens at 18mm, f/3.5, ISO-800, 580x30s frames

There are several other interesting things going on here as well!  The long red streaks are airplanes.  The brightest one you can see made a few course corrections, hence the wobbliness.  The dome is lit up by red light from people arriving and leaving the observatory with their car lights on, and opening their cars to get stuff.  If you look closely a little ways above the dome, you can see a dimmer, shorter streak - this is a satellite.  In particular, it's an Iridium flare.  The Iridium constellation of communications satellites have orbits that cause them to glint the sun over to the darkened part of the Earth, and that glint lasts about two minutes as they move across the sky.  In this case, there are actually two streaks, since the aging satellites in that constellation are being replaced.  The second streak is the replacement.  I created another image with just the five frames that show the flare.

Satellites usually brighten and then darken as they move across the sky into the Earth's shadow, but Iridiums are far brighter, and for a shorter stretch of sky.  If you've ever looked up and happened to catch a bright light briefly appear in the sky and then fade out, it was probably an Iridium flare!  You can use the free cell phone app Heavens Above to track them.

I finally called it quits and packed up, and got home at 5 AM.  I realized that I had been awake for 24 hours!  (With the exception of the two hour-long naps I took that afternoon).  Whoopsie!  But I got such awesome images, it was totally worth it!



Saturday, August 26, 2017

A Super-Duper Primer of Astrophotography Part 10 - It Only Takes a Camera!

I suppose I should have made this one of the first posts in this series, but here it is anyway.
Plugging a camera into a telescope and getting those awesome pictures of galaxies and nebulae is fun.  But you don’t even need a telescope to get started – a DSLR and a tripod is all you need.  There is a lot you can do with just a little equipment.

Wide-Field Imaging
You can get some very nice pictures of the Milky Way with the stock lens and a tripod.  This is one I captured from outside Albuquerque, NM, on the side of the highway with a 6-inch travel tripod I threw in my carry-on backpack.


I utilized stacking here like how I do for my deep sky astroimages, using DeepSkyStacker.  Because it has a registration algorithm, there was no need to track the Milky Way.  I used a 18-55 mm lens at 18 mm.  The shorter the focal length, the less star movement you are going to have over a given period of time.  Shooting at f/3.5 with the focal length at 18mm, I can take single frames as long as 13 seconds facing southward before I start getting star trails.  I set the ISO at 3200 – ISO 6400 is too noisy for my taste, even though you will get more light.  But stacking will get you all the light, color, and detail you could want.  The above photo is 19x15s frames stacked.  I forgot to take darks, so you can see the red banding at the bottom still.  Especially from a dark site, you can get some incredible images of the Milky Way this way.  I highly recommend using a remote shutter or an intervalometer (or if your cameras has a built-in interval timer) to trigger your images so that you touching the camera doesn’t jitter the camera in the first second of the image.

There are plenty of other areas of the sky you can image this way – constellations can make for some very nice images as well.  Here is one of Orion I took this past winter.  I turned the tripod westward periodically so keep it in my sights for a longer period of time, and in DSS, you can turn on “mosaic” mode, which will stitch together all of your images in addition to stacking them.  It came out pretty neat, and you can see the Great Nebula of Orion, the Flame Nebula, and even the Horsehead Nebula if you look carefully.

 Orion Constellation, Nikon D3100, 70-300mm lens at 70mm, f/4
136x6s, ISO-3200
I have tried shooting shorter images at longer focal lengths without much success – even after stacking, they still turn out pretty dark.  Feel free to give it a try though, especially if you have a fast (low f-ratio) lens!  This is one of the few that came out decently.

Also, make sure you take these in RAW format so that stacking and post-processing go more smoothly.

Star Trails
Star trail images are actually super easy to do (although they are time-consuming to capture).  They often look like the photographer left the shutter open for hours, but this isn’t the case – if you did that, it wouldn’t be long before you completely saturate your camera chip with background light.  Instead, you take a number of shorter exposures and use software to stitch them together.  You don’t have to be in a dark area for it either, since stars are pretty bright point sources.  Choose an ISO where you are not getting too much background light pollution (maybe 800 or so – I’ve also done 1600).  Use your shortest focal length.  You can take these in JPG rather than raw.   Make sure you have your focus on manual – your camera won’t be able to auto-focus at night.  Also make sure you set your white balance on something besides Auto (I usually use Daylight), and turn off any other auto settings.  Then set your shutter speed for 30 seconds, and run your camera either on its interval timer, and intervalometer, or off a computer using something like digiCamControl or BackyardNikon/ BackyardEOS.  Take them with as short of a pause in between frames as you can.  Let it run for a few hours, probably an hour at a minimum.  After that, I use a free app conveniently called Star Trails to process them.  Basically, it adds the portion of the image with stars in it together and creates a composite image of all of your subframes, and you get those beautiful arcs.  Facing north tends to be the most interesting, since you can see the stars circling around Polaris, and you can eve see Polaris itself move, since it is not exactly above Earth’s axis of rotation, only close to it.  But you will definitely see movement in any part of the sky.  Think about your foreground when composing your image as well – having something interesting in the foreground is just as eye-catching at the star trails themselves.  After Star Trails, I’ll usually take it into Photoshop to mess with it a bit more.  Also, Star Trails has the ability to subtract out dark frames, although I haven’t tried this yet.

Here’s a quick walkthrough.
 

Open the Star Trails app, then click the Open button (picture of the folder).  Select all of your subframes.  Click Open.

Now the next step is super hard!  Just click the "Star Trails" button :D (It's the one next to the sigma symbol in the top toolbar).  It will give you a few options.

I usually choose the "Lighten-Screen-Blend" option.  The "falling stars" one is really cool too.  Then click OK.  Now just sit back, relax, and let it go!  At the end, you'll get your very nice star trail image.  Save it out, and maybe play with the color and contrast a bit in Photoshop or GIMP if you feel so inclined.


Focusing


So, how exactly do you focus on the stars when the camera can’t autofocus, and they’re too small and dim at short focal lengths for your camera to see in Live View?  I have two techniques.

Use Live View on a distant light, or sometimes Jupiter/Venus.


My Nikon D5300 will auto-adjust Live View to pick up dim objects, changing the shutter speed to as long as about half a second or so.  I’ll turn the camera toward a distant light source, like a street light or house security light or something, and then zoom in on it a ton in Live View.  Sometimes, bright objects like Jupiter, Venus, or even Vega and Sirius will show up in the Live View.  When I’ll rotate the focuser to get it to be as small as possible.  Be very careful when you move the camera after that, as those focusers can slide back pretty easily.  Some photographers have figured out ways to tape their focuser down.  I haven’t done that because I’m sure that applying the tape will move it just a tiny bit, but feel free to give it a try. 

Take short exposures.


If there isn’t a light source or a bright object, I’ll guess at the focus, take a 5-second exposure, and then zoom in a bunch on some of the stars.  When they look pixelated, that is when you are in focus.  DSLR focusers have infinity set at not quite all the way in – this is so that the autofocus doesn’t slam into the stopping point every time.  So bring it all the way in, and then slide back out just a bit to start with, and then adjust from there.  If you see little donut rings, you are farther from focus, and if you see resolved dots but not pixilation, then you are close.  This method takes longer, but your stars will be perfectly in focus.

Final Notes


When it comes to astrophotography, you are only limited by your imagination!  While my telescope rig is busy snapping away, I’ll usually run around with my other DSLR and take all kinds of images – Milky Way, star trails, Iridium flares, ISS passes, meteor showers, whatever is happening that night.  I especially love doing timelapse, particularly when looking out over an observing field full of people or with my telescope moving in the foreground.  Timelapses are especially great when there are clouds.  I’ll have a future post dedicated to that.